HOUSEHOLD
HINTS
Do you Remember These....
Milk Door
You probably haven’t had milk delivered to your door in a very long time. However, it used to be a common occurrence, with a milk door standard in many homes. The small door was situated on the side of the house, and was used to leave bottles of milk between the walls.
Razor Slit in Medicine Cabinet
Decades ago, medicine cabinets had a tiny slit to dispose of old razors. Where might those dirty razors go? Nowhere, really. They merely went into the wall. Out of sight, out of mind
Tips for Storing Your Garden Hose During Winter
Garden hoses aren’t cheap, so you don’t want to damage yours by leaving it outside all winter. Here’s how to keep it in good shape for the spring.
Shut Off the Water – This seems obvious, but you might forget. Many hoses — especially expandable ones — have a lever-style valve that allows you to shut off water to the nozzle without actually turning off the spigot. If that valve is closed, and there’s pressure in the hose, you’re in for a soaking when you unscrew the hose from the spigot. If you have a main water shutoff for the lawn and garden in the house, turn that off. If not, just make sure to fully close all the outdoor spigots by turning the handles clockwise. Besides damaging the hose, leaving the hose outside with the spigot open in freezing temperatures can also damage the spigot, and that’s harder to fix.
Disconnect the Hose – Start by squeezing the trigger on the spray nozzle to release the water pressure. When no more water flows, unscrew the nozzle and store it where you’ll find it next spring. Now, you can disconnect the hose from the spigot. Always separate multiple hoses. If the cold weather has already arrived, the hose might already be frozen. If so, connect the two ends, bring the hose inside to thaw and drain and coil it later.
Drain the Hose – If you have a slope or a flight of stairs on your property, the easiest way to drain a hose is to leave one end at the bottom, carry the other end to the top and let gravity do the work. On flat ground, leave one end near a place where water can safely drain, stretch the hose out, and lift the other end to shoulder height. Start walking while you keep a high loop that forces water out of the end that’s draining.
Coil the Hose – Don’t just dump your hose in a pile in the basement or garage. That will produce kinks and depending on the material from which the hose is made, some of these kinks could become permanent. Coil the hose instead. To get a good coil, stretch the hose out straight. Make a circle on the ground about two or three feet in diameter at one end while you pull the hose toward you. Continue making more circles on top of the original one until you reach the other end. Finally, tie the hose with a piece of twine to prevent it from unraveling and to make it easier to transport and store
Store the Hose Indoors – Bring the hose indoors to prevent it from getting brittle and cracking in the freezing temperatures. If you make a loop in the twine you wrapped around it, you can use that to hang the hose from a nail.
Winterize Your Gas Grill
If you’re not a winter griller, now’s the time to pack away your grill before it’s covered with a foot of snow. In addition to giving your grill a thorough cleaning to remove grease and food scraps, take these steps to help prevent any unpleasant surprises when you fire up your grill again next spring.
Shut off the gas at the LP tank, unfasten the burner, slip the gas tubes off the gas lines and lift out the unit. Coat the burners and other metal parts with cooking oil to repel moisture that can build up over the winter and to prevent rust. Then wrap the burner unit in a plastic bag to keep spiders and insects from nesting in the gas tubes during the winter. This is a common problem that can make for balky starts, uneven flames or even a one-alarm fire the next time you light your grill.
If you’re storing your grill outside during the winter, just keep the propane tank connected (but shut off) and put a protective cover over the entire grill when you’re done cleaning it. If you’re storing the grill indoors, don’t bring the tank inside, even into the garage or a storage shed. A small gas leak can cause a huge explosion if the tank is stored in an enclosed space. Instead, disconnect the tank and store it outside in an upright position away from dryer and furnace vents and children’s play areas. Tape a plastic bag over the grill’s gas line opening to prevent insects from nesting.
Don't Wreck an Outdoor Faucet
Here's why you end up replacing outdoor faucet washers that have worn out long before they should: When you turn off a frost-proof faucet, water continues to trickle out of the long pipe even after the valve is closed. When people see that water, they often assume the valve didn't close, so they crank down harder, which overcompresses the washer, greatly reducing its life. Patience is the key. Wait a second or two after closing the valve. The water should eventually stop (unless you've already destroyed the washer).
MYTH: Frost-proof faucets cannot freeze.
FACT: Leaving a hose attached throughout the winter could leave water in the line to freeze and cause the faucet to burst. Also, if the faucet slopes slightly toward the house, the long pipe will also hold water that can freeze.
Here's why you end up replacing outdoor faucet washers that have worn out long before they should: When you turn off a frost-proof faucet, water continues to trickle out of the long pipe even after the valve is closed. When people see that water, they often assume the valve didn't close, so they crank down harder, which overcompresses the washer, greatly reducing its life. Patience is the key. Wait a second or two after closing the valve. The water should eventually stop (unless you've already destroyed the washer).
MYTH: Frost-proof faucets cannot freeze.
Check Your Detectors
Clean Dryer Vents or Waste Energy and Risk a Fire
Check Your Furnace Filter
Check your furnace filter monthly and change it every three months, depending on the type of filter you use. To do this: Turn off the furnace by flipping the furnace switch. It should be on or next to the furnace and looks like a standard light switch: Find the filter service rack or door. This is most likely on the side with the intake and out-take blower fan. Remove the cover. Slide out the existing filter and hold it up to the light. If you can no longer see light through it, it’s time for a new one. Once you’ve removed the old furnace filter, slide the new one in place. Find the arrow on the filter edge and point it toward the blower motor. (Putting it in backward decreases the filter’s efficiency.) Slide it in, replace the cover and turn on the furnace.Clear Snow From All Outside Vents, Meters and the Oil Fill Pipe
In the winter, snow removal becomes one of the biggest chores. Outside vents blocked by snow can lead to carbon monoxide buildup inside your home — a crucial safety issue. Check your dryer, furnace and water heater vents monthly, and especially after a snowstorm. Also make sure your gas and electric meters are accessible, and your oil or propane company has a way to deliver fuel in the snow — ideally a cleared path.What’s the Best Way to Cover Your AC Unit?
You don’t always need to cover your outdoor AC unit during winter. Most modern AC units are built to handle the elements. However, if any ice or snow builds up on the system, remove it immediately to help restore airflow and prevent rust from forming. Covering an outdoor AC unit can do more harm than good, as covers prevent proper airflow and trap moisture, leading to rust and mold growth. If you do cover your AC unit, the best time to do it is in the fall. It is not recommended to cover an AC compressor unit with a tarp, as that can trap moisture inside. Instead, choose a breathable cover with ventilation flaps or mesh panels, fitted to the unit and made of quality materials, to allow for proper air circulation. One drawback to a fabric cover is that it provides a warm spot for mice and other small animals to live, and they often like to chew on wires and create other issues. Placing a piece of plywood on top of the unit can help protect it from falling ice or heavy snow, but be sure to clear it off as needed. A piece of plywood set on top of the housing that is large enough to cover it and securing it with bricks is likely all that you will need.
What To Know About Killing Mold....
Looking for an affordable, natural product to get rid of mold? Just pick up some vinegar, one of the most powerful mold killers around. According to ServiceMaster Restoration and Cleaning, the mild acid in vinegar kills about 82% of known molds and can help prevent future outbreaks. It’s a great solution for cleaning small areas of mold on hard surfaces. But, while vinegar is a powerful mold cleaning agent, it does have limitations. You can clean small amounts of mold with vinegar yourself, but the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) advises hiring professionals when the moldy patch covers about 10 square feet or larger. The EPA does not recommend using bleach to kill or remove mold, except in special circumstances. Most bleach contains up to 80 per cent water, which can actually help mold to develop. According to ServiceMaster, bleach is only effective at killing surface mold, which allows mold to not only grow back, but to grow back stronger. When bleach is used on porous surfaces like drywall or wood, mold membranes will move deeper into the surface to avoid the chemical. To clean mold, use regular white distilled vinegar, typically sold with five percent acidity. You can also use “cleaning vinegar” with its six percent acidity. Both are effective at killing mold, and generic brands are as effective as name brands. Depending on the amount of mold, let the vinegar sit on the mold at least 60 minutes before wiping or scrubbing. To clean a small area of mold:
Add full-strength white distilled vinegar to a spray bottle and spray it on the mold.
- Let it sit for at least an hour before wiping away mold.
- If you need follow-up scrubbing, combine one teaspoon baking soda with two cups of water. Pour it into a spray bottle, shake and spray it onto the mold. Scrub with a brush or scouring pad.
- Rinse with warm water, then spray again with the vinegar and let it dry.
To protect yourself from mold and its spores, wear gloves, a mask and goggles. Gloves also prevent any skin irritation from the vinegar
8 Tips to Help Troubleshoot Your HVAC Problems
Shut Off the Main Water Valve
Perhaps an even better option, because the cabin is going to be vacant anyway, is to turn the water off altogether at the main valve. If you do this, be sure to use an air compressor to blow all of the water out of the waterlines. “This is helpful if you will be (away) for long periods of time during freezing temperatures, to ensure that there is no still water in the pipes that could freeze and cause damage,” says Mushinski.
When your HVAC system isn’t functioning properly, it’s tempting to panic. Resist the urge. Whether it’s just not operating as it should or it’s not working at all, take these steps to try to identify the problem. The issue might be a simple fix.
Inspect the thermostat. If your HVAC system isn’t working at all or working erratically, make sure the thermostat is at the proper setting for heating or cooling and programmed correctly to turn on and off at the appropriate times. If it has batteries or is rechargeable, replace the batteries or check the charge level.
Check the electrical panel. If your HVAC system isn’t working at all, make sure the power switch at the unit is on, and check the breaker at the electrical panel. If it’s in the on position, flip it off and then on again. If it’s in the off position, flip it on.
Look at the vents. If airflow is obstructed, you’ll have cold or hot spots in your house. Make sure each vent is fully open. Clean them regularly with a broom or a cloth so they aren’t clogged with dirt or debris. Move furniture or other objects that might be blocking them and preventing air from circulating in a room.
Clean or replace filters. Your HVAC air filter keeps dust and other impurities from entering your home. Maintaining it helps keep indoor air cleaner, lets your system run more efficiently, lengthens the system’s life and reduces the chances of costly repairs. Use filters recommended by the manufacturer and set a reminder to change or clean your filter every 30 to 90 days. If you have pets or a lot of dust in your home, clean or change the filter on the shorter end—every 30 days or so. Periodically replace washable filters.
Inspect ductwork. Leaks in air ducts affect how much conditioned air gets to where it needs to go. It’s common for leaks to occur at duct joints. You can detect those with your hand when the system is running. Seal air leaks with aluminum foil tape.
Clear the area around the unit. Check the area surrounding your HVAC unit. For proper airflow, outdoor units should have several feet around them clear of plants and debris. Indoors, clear away any boxes or clutter near a unit that could obstruct airflow and access.
Look for air leaks and drafts. If your doors and windows aren’t properly sealed, or if you don’t have adequate insulation, you’ll have cold or hot spots in your home. This means your HVAC system will have to work harder. Check the attic to see if you should increase insulation. Remove trim around doors and windows, and seal any gaps with foam insulation; when you reinstall the trim, caulk around it. Check exterior doors for adequate weatherstripping, and make sure thresholds seal properly.
Rain-X in Snowblower Chute
With the snow season here again, it is helpful to give your snowblower a tune-up, and that always includes spraying the inside of the chute with Rain-X. The water-repelling spray keeps the chute from getting clogged with wet, packed snow and ice. The Rain-X makes the chute slick, and snow slides out of the chute like it’s supposed to. It can be reapplied every few snowfalls or so.
Leave Kitchen and Bathroom Cabinet Doors Open
These spaces are often along uninsulated outside walls and much colder than the rest of the space, leaving the pipes under kitchen and bathroom sinks particularly vulnerable to freezing. If you keep the heat on, leaving these cabinet doors open will allow that heat to keep the pipes a little warmer, too.How to Avoid Window Condensation in Winter
Since cold air tends to be drier, many people in colder climates run a humidifier to make the air more comfortable. And this is fine, but too much humidity is a bad thing. If condensation is forming on your windows, it also could be forming inside of your walls, causing mold or other problems. The other sources of indoor humidity are people, showers, cooking, leaky dryer vents and even houseplants. So if your windows are fogging up or frosting over here are some things you can do to reduce indoor humidity:
- Lower the setting on your humidifer.
- Turn on the bath fan when you’re showering.
- Run the kitchen exhaust fan when you’re boiling water.
- Check your dryer exhaust vent. Repair loose vent pipes and cover seams with duct tape.
Add a layer of glass or plastic to your windows.
There are several ways to add a layer of glazing to your windows. You can add storm windows, install heat-shrink plastic film or upgrade to double- or triple-glazed windows.
Additional layers of glazing provide better insulation and increase the temperature of the interior layer of glazing. Suppose it’s 25 degrees F outdoors and you have single glazed windows. The interior temperature of the glass probably wouldn’t be much above freezing. And at that temperature, even relatively dry air would condense on the glass. But, if you added a storm window, the interior temperature of the glass would be much warmer, and condensation would be less likely to occur. So, adding more layers of glazing allows you to have higher indoor humidity without frosty windows.
Crack open a few windows
Open at least one window on each floor an inch or two. Even in the depths of our winters, I always leave a window or two on each story of my house slightly cracked. The heat loss is insignificant, and the fresh, dry air from outside prevents condensation before it starts.Take note of any particularly wet windows. Crack these open first, then wait a day or two to see if the fresh air halts the condensation.
If your home is new, try opening your door for 10 to 15 minutes on cold evenings. New concrete, wood and other materials usually take 12 to 18 months to dry, and the drying-out process could be partly responsible for your window condensation.
Check your bathroom(s) for switch-controlled exhaust fans.
Let them run for a least an hour a day. If window condensation persists, run them longer.
Be sure to run your fan during all baths and showers, and for at least 20 minutes after the water stops running.
Try increasing your thermostat’s set point for a few days.