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Do you Remember These....
Coal Chutes
Coal chutes were essential features in homes from the late 19th to mid-20th centuries, allowing coal deliverymen to dump fuel directly into basement coal bins for furnace heating, eliminating carrying coal through the house; these often metal-doored openings in foundations, sometimes with conveyors, are still visible today as relics of a bygone era before gas and oil heating became dominant, with many now sealed or converted.
Knob & Tube Wiring
This early standardized method of electrical wiring in buildings began around 1880 and lasted until the 1930s. The system consisted of single-insulated copper conductors run within wall or ceiling cavities. They passed through joist and stud drill holes by way of protective porcelain insulating tubes. For support along their length, porcelain knob insulators were nailed down. Knob and tube wiring was displaced from interior wiring systems as a result of the high cost of installation in comparison to power cables.
The Best Projects for Your Home
Kitchen Remodeling
Kitchen remodels tend to involve a lot of usability upgrades, which buyers love. This remains one of the best projects to increase resale value, and will probably always have a top spot.
New Fireplace
Installing a new fireplace can quickly increase resale value. And if it’s an upgrade from an older, less efficient wood stove to a gas or electric stove, bonus points.
New Front Door
A new door is immediately apparent, adding to curb appeal while also allowing you to improve security and smart device features.
Conversion to Bedroom
Finishing an area of the house, especially an attic or basement, into another bedroom can greatly increase the resale value of a house. This is because it adds more square footage, creates a new usable room and opens the house up to buyers with larger families.
Attic Insulation
Attic insulation with fiberglass can see over 100 percent cost recouped. This means you are technically gaining resale value at no expense when adding important attic insulation. Make sure all gaps are covered and cracks are sealed against pests.
How to Remove Scratches From Stainless Steel
There are a range of non-abrasive cleaners and kits specifically made to buff scratches out of stainless steel. To use these:
- Apply the cleaner to a clean microfiber or other soft cloth.
- Gently buff the surface in the direction of the grain. Repeat as needed.
- Wipe with a damp cloth, followed by a dry cloth.
- Follow any manufacturer instructions and precautions.
Be sure to move the pad in the direction of the grain as you work over the deep grooves to fill them in. Avoid using circular motions, as this could cause discoloration on the appliance.
The light abrasiveness of baking soda makes it another popular fix for removing scratches from stainless steel. To use it:
- Combine equal parts baking soda and water to form a thick paste.
- Rub the paste gently into the scratch along the grain, applying light pressure.
- Rinse the area with water to remove excess paste, then dry with a soft cloth.
This method is eco-friendly, gentle on surfaces and cost-effective, but it requires patience and may not work on deep scratches. Alternatively, you can use a non-gel toothpaste mixed with baking soda and water to make the paste.
How to Prevent Scratches on Stainless Steel
Regular cleaning and polishing are important to maintain your stainless steel, and they will hide many minor scuffs and scratches.
- Use clean, soft cloths, like microfiber or soft cotton, and polish with the grain.
- Dry immediately. Water spots can contribute to scratches, so dry your stainless steel appliances after cleaning.
- Use coasters and trivets, and avoid touching the surface with sharp or abrasive objects.
- Place magnetic, felt or rubber pads under appliances to prevent scratches from shifting.
- Stay away from abrasive cleaners or scrubbing pads.
- Don’t use chlorine-based cleaners, which can all dull the finish.
- If your appliance didn’t come with a coating, treat your stainless steel with an aftermarket protective film.
Don’t rush cleaning. Let cleaning solutions or a baking soda and vinegar mixture sit on any charred food or residue. After the solution has had time to work, you can easily wipe away the grime without risking scratches.
Mulch vs. Rock: Which Is Best?
Organic mulch and rock are two popular choices for home landscaping, but each has its benefits and drawbacks. Some people prefer the look and longevity of rock, while others prefer softer, lighter wood or pine needle mulch. When deciding between mulch versus rock, it’s all about your personal preference. Mulch landscaping makes your garden thrive by locking in moisture, keeping roots cool, and suppressing weed growth.
Best for:
- Garden beds with flowers, shrubs, and trees
- Gardens in dry or hot areas
- Eco-friendly gardening methods
- Those looking to spend less time weeding gardens
Advantages of Mulch
- Less watering: Mulch helps soil retain moisture and reduces surface evaporation, so you can water less often.
- More nutrients: Mulch is a natural product that adds nutrients to feed plants and soil. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with essential nutrients such as nitrogen from grass clippings and compost, phosphorus from decomposed leaves and manure, and potassium from bark mulch and straw.
- Fewer weeds: Mulch, with its small pieces and fine texture, covers soil more completely to help prevent weed growth.
- Just the right temperature: Mulch is a natural insulator, keeping plants warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Winter mulching is particularly common among Northern gardeners.
- Easy to install: If you buy bags of mulch, it’s simple to tote them around to places where you’ll spread the goods.
Disadvantages of Mulch
- Too much mulch can be harmful. A layer of mulch more than three inches deep can stress plants. Excessive mulch can reduce oxygen levels in the soil, suffocating the roots. It can further stress the roots by attracting pests and causing them to rot.
- Timing matters: If you spread mulch too early in the season, your soil won’t warm naturally, meaning late blooms. If it’s spread too late, weeds will develop.
- Can attract bugs: Mulch retains moisture and provides a shaded environment, which makes it prone to bugs like ants, termites, and beetles. Wood-based mulches are especially attractive to pests. While ants and beetles can affect plant health, termites can significantly damage any wooden structures nearby.
What Is Rock Landscaping?
Rock landscaping, or hardscaping, uses gravel or rocks in various sizes, colors, and textures to cover soil, creating beautiful, long-lasting outdoor spaces.
Unlike mulch, rocks don’t decompose, making them a low-maintenance choice to give your yard a clean, modern look.
Best for:
- Areas with drainage issues
- Open bed areas without plants
Let’s examine the pros and cons of landscaping with rocks to determine whether it’s the right choice for your yard.
Advantages of Rock Landscaping
- Low maintenance: Rock doesn’t decay and will stay where you place it for years.
- Fireproof: If you live in an area with wildfires, rock can make a good fire break.
- Variety: Rock gives you countless options in size, shape and color.
- Fewer bugs: Unlike mulch, rock will not attract bugs or pests, which are drawn to decaying matter.
- Erosion proof: Rock can prevent soil erosion and will stay in place on hillsides or sloped yards.
Disadvantages of Rock Landscaping
- Too hot: Dark rock holds heat and raises ground temperatures. Light-colored rock reflects heat onto plants. Both increase evaporation, so you’ll need to water more.
- No benefit to plants: Rock doesn’t aid plant growth or soil health.
- Weed bed: The spaces between rocks invite leaves, seeds and weeds.
- Remove by hand: Moving rock, whether for replanting or new landscaping, is hard work.
- Too heavy: Gravel is heavy, hard to transport and not DIY friendly.
Mulch Versus Rock: Which Is Better to Use Around a House?
Here are a few factors to consider when deciding between rock and mulch for your landscaping. Mulch is more versatile for plant beds as it retains moisture and maintains soil health. However, it breaks down and fades over time, meaning you’ll need to refresh it every season to maintain its appearance and benefits.
How to Get Rid of Mice With This Surprising Hack
If you want to have a home free of mice, you don’t necessarily have to buy mousetraps and bait them with cheese or peanut butter. Who wants to trap mice when you can easily keep them away with a common, perfectly safe mouse deterrent? Just make sure the corners and other dark places where they congregate and build their nests smell like peppermint. Peppermint offers a successful natural mouse deterrent that works when trying to repel mice. You can use two methods to incorporate the smell of peppermint into your home as a mouse deterrent. The first is to grow peppermint plants and leave them around the house.
If you don’t desire a home full of peppermint plants, then you might prefer using peppermint oil instead. Spray the essential oil in different areas of your home that mice can access. If you’re trying to catch the mice, strategically spray the peppermint oil in places that don’t have a mousetrap. In theory, this should lead them to wherever you have placed it.
If you have pets or small children, use the essential oil with caution, because it can be toxic in high doses. Keep the bottle out of their reach at all times and do your best to limit their access to the areas where you’ve sprayed the oil.
Mold Remediation: How to Remove Mold
- Scrub the surface mold stains from walls and wood trim with undiluted, distilled white vinegar.
- Apply with a rag or spray bottle, then let sit for an hour.
- Use a soft brush and work until signs of the mold disappear.
- After scrubbing the surfaces, wipe off but DO NOT RINSE these surfaces.
- Set trim in direct sunlight to dry. Scrub concrete with TSP or automatic dishwasher detergent.
- Set out dehumidifiers and fans to dry the now-cleaned areas for at least three days, then check them by sight and smell for mold.
- Pro tip: If you discover more mold, clean again with vinegar for mold remediation.
- When you’re sure the mold has been eliminated, seal the wood surfaces with an oil-based primer like KILZ.
- Repaint cleaned wall surfaces with a regular latex paint that contains a mildewcide to help stop future mold growth.
- Install new insulation and drywall and nail the trim back on. Keep in mind that if the moisture returns, mold will return.
Check Your Furnace Filter
Check your furnace filter monthly and change it every three months, depending on the type of filter you use. To do this: Turn off the furnace by flipping the furnace switch. It should be on or next to the furnace and looks like a standard light switch: Find the filter service rack or door. This is most likely on the side with the intake and out-take blower fan. Remove the cover. Slide out the existing filter and hold it up to the light. If you can no longer see light through it, it’s time for a new one. Once you’ve removed the old furnace filter, slide the new one in place. Find the arrow on the filter edge and point it toward the blower motor. (Putting it in backward decreases the filter’s efficiency.) Slide it in, replace the cover and turn on the furnace.Clear Snow From All Outside Vents, Meters and the Oil Fill Pipe
In the winter, snow removal becomes one of the biggest chores. Outside vents blocked by snow can lead to carbon monoxide buildup inside your home — a crucial safety issue. Check your dryer, furnace and water heater vents monthly, and especially after a snowstorm. Also make sure your gas and electric meters are accessible, and your oil or propane company has a way to deliver fuel in the snow — ideally a cleared path.What’s the Best Way to Cover Your AC Unit?
You don’t always need to cover your outdoor AC unit during winter. Most modern AC units are built to handle the elements. However, if any ice or snow builds up on the system, remove it immediately to help restore airflow and prevent rust from forming. Covering an outdoor AC unit can do more harm than good, as covers prevent proper airflow and trap moisture, leading to rust and mold growth. If you do cover your AC unit, the best time to do it is in the fall. It is not recommended to cover an AC compressor unit with a tarp, as that can trap moisture inside. Instead, choose a breathable cover with ventilation flaps or mesh panels, fitted to the unit and made of quality materials, to allow for proper air circulation. One drawback to a fabric cover is that it provides a warm spot for mice and other small animals to live, and they often like to chew on wires and create other issues. Placing a piece of plywood on top of the unit can help protect it from falling ice or heavy snow, but be sure to clear it off as needed. A piece of plywood set on top of the housing that is large enough to cover it and securing it with bricks is likely all that you will need.
What To Know About Killing Mold....
Looking for an affordable, natural product to get rid of mold? Just pick up some vinegar, one of the most powerful mold killers around. According to ServiceMaster Restoration and Cleaning, the mild acid in vinegar kills about 82% of known molds and can help prevent future outbreaks. It’s a great solution for cleaning small areas of mold on hard surfaces. But, while vinegar is a powerful mold cleaning agent, it does have limitations. You can clean small amounts of mold with vinegar yourself, but the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) advises hiring professionals when the moldy patch covers about 10 square feet or larger. The EPA does not recommend using bleach to kill or remove mold, except in special circumstances. Most bleach contains up to 80 per cent water, which can actually help mold to develop. According to ServiceMaster, bleach is only effective at killing surface mold, which allows mold to not only grow back, but to grow back stronger. When bleach is used on porous surfaces like drywall or wood, mold membranes will move deeper into the surface to avoid the chemical. To clean mold, use regular white distilled vinegar, typically sold with five percent acidity. You can also use “cleaning vinegar” with its six percent acidity. Both are effective at killing mold, and generic brands are as effective as name brands. Depending on the amount of mold, let the vinegar sit on the mold at least 60 minutes before wiping or scrubbing. To clean a small area of mold:
Add full-strength white distilled vinegar to a spray bottle and spray it on the mold.
- Let it sit for at least an hour before wiping away mold.
- If you need follow-up scrubbing, combine one teaspoon baking soda with two cups of water. Pour it into a spray bottle, shake and spray it onto the mold. Scrub with a brush or scouring pad.
- Rinse with warm water, then spray again with the vinegar and let it dry.
To protect yourself from mold and its spores, wear gloves, a mask and goggles. Gloves also prevent any skin irritation from the vinegar
8 Tips to Help Troubleshoot Your HVAC Problems
Shut Off the Main Water Valve
Perhaps an even better option, because the cabin is going to be vacant anyway, is to turn the water off altogether at the main valve. If you do this, be sure to use an air compressor to blow all of the water out of the waterlines. “This is helpful if you will be (away) for long periods of time during freezing temperatures, to ensure that there is no still water in the pipes that could freeze and cause damage,” says Mushinski.
When your HVAC system isn’t functioning properly, it’s tempting to panic. Resist the urge. Whether it’s just not operating as it should or it’s not working at all, take these steps to try to identify the problem. The issue might be a simple fix.
Inspect the thermostat. If your HVAC system isn’t working at all or working erratically, make sure the thermostat is at the proper setting for heating or cooling and programmed correctly to turn on and off at the appropriate times. If it has batteries or is rechargeable, replace the batteries or check the charge level.
Check the electrical panel. If your HVAC system isn’t working at all, make sure the power switch at the unit is on, and check the breaker at the electrical panel. If it’s in the on position, flip it off and then on again. If it’s in the off position, flip it on.
Look at the vents. If airflow is obstructed, you’ll have cold or hot spots in your house. Make sure each vent is fully open. Clean them regularly with a broom or a cloth so they aren’t clogged with dirt or debris. Move furniture or other objects that might be blocking them and preventing air from circulating in a room.
Clean or replace filters. Your HVAC air filter keeps dust and other impurities from entering your home. Maintaining it helps keep indoor air cleaner, lets your system run more efficiently, lengthens the system’s life and reduces the chances of costly repairs. Use filters recommended by the manufacturer and set a reminder to change or clean your filter every 30 to 90 days. If you have pets or a lot of dust in your home, clean or change the filter on the shorter end—every 30 days or so. Periodically replace washable filters.
Inspect ductwork. Leaks in air ducts affect how much conditioned air gets to where it needs to go. It’s common for leaks to occur at duct joints. You can detect those with your hand when the system is running. Seal air leaks with aluminum foil tape.
Clear the area around the unit. Check the area surrounding your HVAC unit. For proper airflow, outdoor units should have several feet around them clear of plants and debris. Indoors, clear away any boxes or clutter near a unit that could obstruct airflow and access.
Look for air leaks and drafts. If your doors and windows aren’t properly sealed, or if you don’t have adequate insulation, you’ll have cold or hot spots in your home. This means your HVAC system will have to work harder. Check the attic to see if you should increase insulation. Remove trim around doors and windows, and seal any gaps with foam insulation; when you reinstall the trim, caulk around it. Check exterior doors for adequate weatherstripping, and make sure thresholds seal properly.
Rain-X in Snowblower Chute
With the snow season here again, it is helpful to give your snowblower a tune-up, and that always includes spraying the inside of the chute with Rain-X. The water-repelling spray keeps the chute from getting clogged with wet, packed snow and ice. The Rain-X makes the chute slick, and snow slides out of the chute like it’s supposed to. It can be reapplied every few snowfalls or so.
Leave Kitchen and Bathroom Cabinet Doors Open
These spaces are often along uninsulated outside walls and much colder than the rest of the space, leaving the pipes under kitchen and bathroom sinks particularly vulnerable to freezing. If you keep the heat on, leaving these cabinet doors open will allow that heat to keep the pipes a little warmer, too.How to Avoid Window Condensation in Winter
Since cold air tends to be drier, many people in colder climates run a humidifier to make the air more comfortable. And this is fine, but too much humidity is a bad thing. If condensation is forming on your windows, it also could be forming inside of your walls, causing mold or other problems. The other sources of indoor humidity are people, showers, cooking, leaky dryer vents and even houseplants. So if your windows are fogging up or frosting over here are some things you can do to reduce indoor humidity:
- Lower the setting on your humidifer.
- Turn on the bath fan when you’re showering.
- Run the kitchen exhaust fan when you’re boiling water.
- Check your dryer exhaust vent. Repair loose vent pipes and cover seams with duct tape.
Add a layer of glass or plastic to your windows.
There are several ways to add a layer of glazing to your windows. You can add storm windows, install heat-shrink plastic film or upgrade to double- or triple-glazed windows.
Additional layers of glazing provide better insulation and increase the temperature of the interior layer of glazing. Suppose it’s 25 degrees F outdoors and you have single glazed windows. The interior temperature of the glass probably wouldn’t be much above freezing. And at that temperature, even relatively dry air would condense on the glass. But, if you added a storm window, the interior temperature of the glass would be much warmer, and condensation would be less likely to occur. So, adding more layers of glazing allows you to have higher indoor humidity without frosty windows.
Crack open a few windows
Open at least one window on each floor an inch or two. Even in the depths of our winters, I always leave a window or two on each story of my house slightly cracked. The heat loss is insignificant, and the fresh, dry air from outside prevents condensation before it starts.Take note of any particularly wet windows. Crack these open first, then wait a day or two to see if the fresh air halts the condensation.
If your home is new, try opening your door for 10 to 15 minutes on cold evenings. New concrete, wood and other materials usually take 12 to 18 months to dry, and the drying-out process could be partly responsible for your window condensation.
Check your bathroom(s) for switch-controlled exhaust fans.
Let them run for a least an hour a day. If window condensation persists, run them longer.
Be sure to run your fan during all baths and showers, and for at least 20 minutes after the water stops running.
Try increasing your thermostat’s set point for a few days.